Thursday, November 26, 2009

Power to Weight Ratio

Bored with 2 wheels writing, let's have some chit chat with 4 wheels.

This is the first time I write about 4 wheels. So, I will start with light writing first. That is "Power to Weight Ratio".

Power to Weight Ratio is very common this days, because it measure actual engine performance. It is the engine Power output divided by the curb weight of the vehicle.

This is the Formula:

P-to-W = P/W

The measurement I use is Watt divided by kilogram.

Now, we are headed to the real 4 wheels specification data. I limit the category into urban compact car that exist in this country, that is Indonesia.

After we have the fact data, let us calculate the P-to-W data.

  • Yaris

  • P-to-W=80 kW / 1,035 kg
    =80,000 W / 1,035 kg
    =77.3 W/kg

  • Swift ST

  • P-to-W=74.5 kW / 1,000 kg
    =74,500 W / 1,000 kg
    =74.5 W/kg

  • Swift GT2

  • P-to-W=74.5 kW / 1,020 kg
    =74,500 W / 1,020 kg
    =73 W/kg

  • All New Jazz

  • P-to-W=88 kW / 1,115 kg
    =88,000 W / 1,115 kg
    =78.9 W/kg

  • Livina XR

  • P-to-W=80 kW / 1,117 kg
    =80,000 W / 1,117 kg
    =71.6 W/kg

  • Hyundai i20

  • P-to-W=74.6 kW / 1,100 kg
    =74,600 W / 1,100 kg
    =67.8 W/kg

  • Aveo

  • P-to-W=63.3 kW / 1,055 kg
    =63,300 W / 1,055 kg
    =60 W/kg

  • Mazda2

  • P-to-W=76 kW / 1,029 kg
    =76,000 W / 1,029 kg
    =73.9 W/kg

This data proved that All New Jazz is the winner followed by Yaris on the second and Swift ST on the third grade.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Migrate to The Full DC System

Friday, August 7, 2009, I want to implement Full Wave electricity system for
my scooter.

The positive effect of Full Wave system is:
  • Full DC system
  • Stable battery charging
  • Minimal blinking on the light system
  • More brighter light

And the negative side of Full Wave system is:
  • More hotter on the rectifier
  • Must use the Full Wave Rectifier minimum 2 phase (bigger is better)
  • More hotter on the cabling system

This is the step detail to implement Full Wave system (see picture
  • Release both of the blue mark cable
  • Join both of the cable

  • The left blue mark picture is for AC system light
  • The right blue mark picture is for grounding

Technically, Full Wave system or should I say full DC system, doesn't need light system sourced from the Stator. Because it source directed from the battery!!! So, the light cabling system and grounding is disabled, and then replace it with the combination of the light and grounding cable. This make the output became doubled or may be tripled through the light cable (yellow cable).

Make sure that the Stator ground is disable for good. If not, then the Full Wave system didn't work correctly! And can cause burn to the whole electricity system.

Next step is (see picture below):
  • Release the yellow cable on the white socket opposite the pink dot and seal it!
  • Remove the rectifier
  • Release the yellow cable on the rectifier socket and connect it to the positive system out from the key contact
  • Connect a new cable to the white socket and direct it to the rectifier socket
  • Replace the rectifier with a brand new Full Wave Rectifier

Done. That's all the step detail if I want to migrate to the Full Wave

  • Yellow cable: Lighting sourced from the Stator
  • White cable: Battery charging sourced from the Stator (AC)
  • Red cable: Battery input charging (DC)
  • Green cable: Ground

Friday, July 24, 2009

Delvac 1 5W-40 vs Fastron 10W-40

May be some of you very curious about this. Why? Because Delvac 1 is Group IV oil and Fastron is Group III. How can I compare 2 different Group oil? Should the answer is clearly that Group IV is far better than Group III?

OK, I don't want to give any conclution yet. So, let's go on to the test comparison. Mobil Delvac 1 is Singapore packaging nor the US. Pertamina Fastron is Indonesian product.

Mobil Delvac 1Pertamina Fastron
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)14.714.13
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)9899.99
Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270)156144
Flash Point °C (ASTM D-92)249230
Pour Point °C (ASTM D-97)-48-27
Total Base Number, mg KOH/g (ASTM D-2896)10.16.43

Based on the technical data, lets try compare the oil one by one.
  1. Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
  2. Delvac 1 value is 14.7 and Fastron is 14.13, that mean at 100°C Delvac 1 is thicker than Fastron.

  3. Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
  4. Delvac 1 value is 98 and Fastron is 99.99, that mean at 40°C Fastron is thicker than Delvac 1.

  5. Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270)
  6. Delvac 1 values is 156 and fastron is 144, that mean Delvac 1 more strengthen than Fastron to maintain it's viscosity over a wide temperature range.

  7. Flash Point °C (ASTM D-92)
  8. Delvac 1 value is 249 and Fastron is 230, that mean Delvac 1 is starting to vaporizes to create enough gas that become momentary flammable is higher than Fastron.

  9. Pour Point °C (ASTM D-97)
  10. Delvac 1 value is -48 and Fastron is -27, that mean Delvac 1 is still can flow lower than Fastron.

  11. Total Base Number, mg KOH/g (ASTM D-2896)
  12. Delvac 1 value is 10.1 and Fastron is 6.43, that mean Delvac 1 has the ability to neutralize acid far more better than Fastron.

Time to test these two. The method that I use is:
  1. Drain the oil from my scooter until the last drop
  2. Check whether there is still some oil in the crankshaft or not
  3. Fill the brand new oil into the engine about 850mL
  4. Change the air filter with the new one
  5. Start the engine and make sure the engine is hot enough and the idle RPM is flat
  6. Test the oil on regular road condition until 2000km usage at maximum speed 70kmh

Mobil Delvac 1:
  • Torque
  • This is make my scooter torque heavier. I had to prepare more time to accelerate before passing a bus.

  • Engine noise
  • Quiet enough, don't know for sure how much dB is it. 'Cause I don't test it with a proper tool.

  • Torque after 2000km
  • Fell is just as same as the first time I fill the oil into the engine.

  • Engine noise after 2000km
  • Much the same as the first one.

  • Oil color after 2000km
  • Very deep dark brown color

Pertamina Fastron:
  • Torque
  • Better than Delvac 1

  • Engine noise
  • Similar to Delvac 1

  • Torque after 2000km
  • The torque after 2000km is increased, I think that because the oil is starting to degrade to become 30W.

  • Engine noise after 2000km
  • A little noisy on the cylinder head, I can hear the rocker arm sound pressing the valve stem.

  • Oil color after 2000km
  • Deep dark brown color

My country is tropical country that the temperature range about 28-32°C at noon.

My conclution is:
  • Fastron was better on the torque. That make sense, because the cSt of Delvac 1 @ 100°C is thicker than Fastron.

  • Delvac 1 can be use longer than Fastron, indicated by the sound of the valve stem. This is make sense too, because Delvac 1 has higher VI and TBN than Fastron.

- Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40
- Pertamina Fastron 10W-40

Friday, May 22, 2009

High Temperature Grease

Thurday, May 21, 2009, at 2:30AM, I want to change the grease on the driven pulley part of my scooter.

The grease that I used is not an ordinary grease, because it has to be stand on a very high heat and corrotion. And that is High Temperature Grease.

Why should I use the high temp grease? Because, the heat that transfered from the engine combustion, the friction of the gearbox and the friction from the cvt it selves is very high. Beside, sometimes water got through into the cvt, so the grease should stand on the corrotion too.

This grease is made from a lithium complex, and that is synthetic grease.

Lets begin the work.

First, loosen and remove the two screws signed with a white arrow with a medium plus (+) srewdriver. Then, remove the black plastic part to safe place.

Second, remove the two bolts signed with a red arrow with a 8mm socket or 8mm T-socket. Remove the 8 bolts signed with a white arrow with a 8mm socket or 8mm T-socket. Then remove the cvt cap to the safe place.

Here is the picture inside the cvt.

Third, remove the nut that hold the front/drive pulley with a 17mm impact wrench or with a 17mm socket and a universal holder if you don't have the impact wrench.

Fourth, remove the nut that hold rear/driven pulley with a 17mm impact wrench or with a 17mm socket and a universal holder.

Fifth, disassemble the front and rear pulley together.

The part that I should replace the grease is the rear/driven pulley especially on the secondary sheave. Before that, I check the clutch.

There no weird condition on the clutch, seems the clutch work very good so I can move on to change the grease.

Dissamble the clutch with a clutch special tools.

Oh almost forgot, from now on I don't give any picture, cause my hand is dirty with dust and grease. So I can not take any picture with my situation from now on.

Here is the continuation of the work:
- Remove the clutch spring seat.
- Remove the sheave cover with a medium minus (-) screwdriver.
- Remove the three push pin with the minus srewdriver.
- Remove the secondary sheave.
- Clean all the grease inside and outside the sheave
- Clean all the grease on the secondary sheave.
- Give a brand new high temp grease onto both of the sheave

Done with it, now put everything up together step by step backward. And don't forget to give a little amount of the grease onto the countershaft.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Testing Gold Class™ Car Wash

Sunday, May 17, 2009, I run out my regular car wash shampoo. So I took my brand new car wash shampoo that I bought about 2 week ago; that is Meguiar's® Gold Class™ Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner

I read on how to instruction on the back. Meguiar's recommend 4 cap bottle mix with 1 gallon water.

Something that messing in my mind is, what is the "Gallon" standar that they use? is it US Liquid or UK or Imperial?
- 1 Gallon = 3.785 Liter (US Liquid)
- 1 Gallon = 4.546 Liter (UK)
- 1 Gallon = 4.546 Liter (Imperial)

Based on this data, which one should I choose? UK and Imperial result the same value, so I bet I should use 4.546 Liter right? Hold on a second, let us read closely the back side instruction. Hm..., they didn't mention any of that. But may be, if I follow the maker of this product I can get preassumption which one should I take.

The bottle had written it made in Holland. It is part of the Europe right and closer to the UK than the US, so they must use the UK Gallon convertion unit.

Ok, lets prepare the bucket and clean it. I've only need about 2 Liter to wash my scooter, so I pour 2 cap of it and mix with water about 2+ Liter.

I Spray the whole paint surface with water and hope that the grime will wash away and the dirt will get softer after I spray on it. I continue washing the paint surface, after that I continue on the other parts that has no paint at all. Spray again with water to dismiss the foam.

Wow, the paint surfaces has repellent the water. The paint shine really great far better than my old car wash shampoo.

This is the best car wash shampoo that I ever had. Oh this product is Biodegradable too, so it is safe for the environment.

Monday, May 04, 2009

Testing Hot Shine™ Tire Gel

Sunday, May 3, 2009, I want to try out the result of Meguiar’s® Hot Shine™ High Gloss Tire Gel on my tire.

I wash my scooter and finish it with the Ultimate Quik Detailer. After that, I shake the Hot Shine bottle and remove the inner seal. I pour the gel onto the sponge and wipe it to the side wall tire surface carefully.

"Be sure not to apply on the tire surface that contact with the road, because it will cause slippery on your tire"

Here is the final result after I applied it to my tire:

As you can see, the result is very dark black and deep gloss, I like it so much. Meguiars recommend to apply second layer for best result, and the second layer must be apply 10 minutes after the first layer.

Lets wait how long this Hot Shine can protect my tire from UV dan rain badly, is it 1 week? Or may be 2 week? Or may be more or less than that. I don't know for sure, but I hope it will last longer than the tire protectant that I used previously. And hope too that dirt and mud doesn't adhere strongly to the tire surface not like my previous protectant, so I can easily clean it.

Almost Complete Detailing Amunition

Saturday, May 2, 2009, I go to buy some of detailing product, I want to complete the list of my consumer line detailing product so I can achieve the finest result of paint detailing.

The product that I buy on saturday is:
- Meguiar's® Gold Class™ Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
- Meguiar's® ScratchX®
- Meguiar's® Quik Detailer®
- Meguiar's® Ultimate Quik Detailer™
- Meguiar’s® Hot Shine™ High Gloss Tire Gel

All of the product is Meguiar's consumer line. By the way, ScratchX that I buy is still the old one (not ScratchX 2.0) because is hasn't out right now in my country, still on shipping.

And here it is, all of the product that I have right now.

Complete? No, not yet. I still hasn't:
- Meguiar’s® Gold Class™ Bug & Tar Remover
- Meguiar’s® PlastX™ Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish
- Meguiar’s® Smooth Surface® Replacement Clay

Last thing that I want is DeWalt DW849 Heavy-Duty 7"/9" Electronic Variable Speed Polisher.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Ideal Tire Pressure

This is an old post, but I think I've accidentally deleted it. So I decided to write it again to remind me the ideal tire pressure for all scooter and small sized motorcycle.

According to the manual book, the ideal tire pressure is:

* 1 rider
Front: 1.75 kg/cm2
Rear: 2.00 kg/cm2

* 2 riders
Front: 1.75 kg/cm2
Rear: 2.25 kg/cm2

* 2 riders (GD250)
Front: 2.00 kg/cm2
Rear: 2.25 kg/cm2

If we convert it into PSI (1 kg/cm2 = 14.223 psi), then the tire pressure is:

* 1 rider
Front: 1.75 * 14.223 psi = 24.89025 psi
Rear: 2.00 * 14.223 psi = 28.446 psi

* 2 riders
Front: 1.75 * 14.223 psi = 24.89025 psi
Rear: 2.25 * 14.223 psi = 32.00175 psi

* 2 riders (GD250)
Front: 2.00 * 14.223 psi = 28.446 psi
Rear: 2.25 * 14.223 psi = 32.00175 psi


Thursday, February 19, 2009

Pirelli SL-38 Unico

Monday, February 16, 2009, my scooter tyre arrived, that is Pirelli SL-38 UNICO 110/80-10 sized for my rear wheel.

Tuesday, February 17, 2009 at 11.00 AM, I change my rear Pirelli SL-26 with Pirelli SL-38 UNICO. It take about 20 minute to replace the tyre.

The thread is design for a wet surface, but not limited on a dry surface.

Let's try it on a real road condition.

Turn on my scooter and run it about 40kmh on a dry road condition. Wow, my scooter is very stable, I don't sense any wrong movement on the rear when I tried to move in and out so sudden. Even when push hard my scooter on high speed and high acceleration, I can control my scooter easily.

What about on a wet condition?

Wednesday, February 18, 2009, the road is wet after the rain fall not to heavy. The rain is stop, time to test the tyre. I choose time after the rain stop, because it's the time when water is not moving and will cause the aqua planning on the tyre.

Run my scooter as usual, speed 40, 60 and 80kmh, and run a slalom. The tyre keep my scooter stay onto the ground, this is good, When I hit the brake, my scooter is stop correctly, only a small amount unnecessary movement. But ordinary rider won't feel it either.

My opinion is: This is tyre is impressive!!!

Safety Shoe

Saturday, February 14, 2009, I ride with my wife to the shoe store, I need to buy a new safety shoe to replace mine that almost broken.

After look around a bit, my eyes stop on one shoe.

That is Kings Safety Shoes. This shoe meet on my standar criteria, that is:
- Waterproof
- High enough if I use on a rain, that water can't get inside from the top if I wear a rain coat
- Has a steel cap, that protect my finger

The store gave me a discount, about 25%. Great, this will save my money from a high expense.

OK, here it is. The shoe is King Safety Shoes KWD805X

Kings made this shoe with a high standard, like:
- Oil resistant Sole
- Antistatic, etc

The look of this shoe (or may be a boot) just like a hard work shoe. But don't mind with that, as long as my feet is safe, I don't care about it.

"No Steel Midsole" mean this shoe doesn't have a steel protector on the bottom of the sole.

First impression of this shoe is, "Its heavy and kinda difficult to walk". Same impression when first I wear my old shoe, may be after couple of day, I will get use to it.

Lets try on my scooter.

Run the scooter slowly and step the shoe onto the deck. HEY!!! It's weird, no it's very soft and a little bit bouncy when I first put my feet on the deck.

I love this shoe sole but I don't like the weight.

Friday, February 13, 2009

H4 Headlight

Last January 2009, the reflector H4 for my scooter is arrived, I look at it, and found some differences with the stock. The position of the bracket reflector is differ, so I must make some changes on it.

I go the modification house to make the changes based on my order.

After waiting about two week, finally it finished yesterday on Thursday, February 12, 2009. I plug the part on my scooter.


Now I look for the lamp. I choose Osram Nightbreaker H4 60/55 W This is performance halogen lamp +90, that is the best halogen lamp right now.

Inside of the package:

There is a blue coat that osram claim that this coat make the lamp become less glare for the driver. That make this lamp is safer to eye strain.

Lets try on my scooter. First I plug the lamp onto the reflector and tighten the lamp onto the reflector. Plug the socket wire to the lamp.

Now get ready for the action. I am very nervous about it. I pull my scooter right on the middle of the street right in front of my house about 12pm.

This is the result; before that, I am really sorry if the picture isn't good enough, because it late, and my eyes is heavy too.

This is the street condition before I turn on my scooter headlight:

Now I turn my scooter on, and see the result on low RPM about 1800 RPM

And now, the last is on more than 3000 RPM or the maximum condition of the light:

As you can see, the spot light is wider and long enough, so I can see the road condition better than before. I really loved it.

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Demon Eye - Failed Project

Saturday, January 17, 2009, I started to begin my Lightning Project again, signed with the Project L. Now, the braking light system that need to redefined, and make sure that the light doesn't consume electricity to much that pooring all the system.

1st stage of the braking system is called "DEMON EYE".

I bought 2 meter white glow wire with the Inverter for 12V input.

- Cut the output cable from the Inverter about 20cm long, and paint it silver so it will shadow with the brake reflector.

- Connect the inverter input cable onto the night mode light output

I tried to measure the output from the inverter with the Volt Meter. It about 5V, so I assume that this glow wire will work best on a 5V input.

- Stick the glow wire onto the inside section of the red mica with a glue gun.

- Solder the two small wire inside the glow wire with the negatif output of the inverter

- Clean up the middle wire of the glow wire with an abrasif paper so we can see the metal part shining

- Solder the middle wire of the glow wire with the positif output of the inverter

- Place everyting parts together and switch on the night mode light

As you can see the result is not good enough, the reason is the glow wire diameter is to small about 2mm. For best result, I need to change the glow wire to 5mm diameter so it will make the demon eye more eye catching and more elegant. And that is on the next project!