NGK Iridium vs Denso Iridium

Ternyata saya tidak perlu bersusah payah mengimport busi yang saya mau untuk Suzuki Address, yaitu NGK CPR7EAIX-9. Karena belum lama ini, NGK telah mengmportnya langsung dari Jepang. Dan harga yang ditawarkan pun relatif setara dengan kompetitor.

Salah satu hal yang saya suka dari design box kedua busi ini adalah terdapat keterangan cara mengencangkannya.

Dimana Denso menjelaskan nominal torsi yang dibutuhkan berdasarkan diameter tools yang digunakan.

Sedangkan NGK; kencangkan dengan jari kemudian menggunakan tools M10 dan diputar 1/2 putaran.

Dari dua hal ini, NGK lebih user friendly untuk menjelaskan cara mengencangkan busi yang benar, dan tidak terlalu teknikal seperti denso yang memaksa kita menggunakan tools dengan pengatur torsi yang sudah pasti bukanlah tools yang murah untuk dimiliki.

Sekarang mari kita bandingkan antara busi Standar vs Iridium.

Dari kanan ke kiri: NGK CPR7EA-9, Denso IU22, NGK CPR7EAIX-9

Paling kanan merupakan busi standar bagi Suzuki Address

Sedangkan Denso IU22 dan NGK CPR7EAIX-9 merupakan konversi busi Iridium sesuai rekomendasi yang tertera pada buku manual.

Dari wujud fisik antara Denso dan NGK (baik standar maupun Iridium) sudah jelas terlihat bahwa busi NGK sangat unggul, dikarenakan konstruksi nya lebih menonjol, sehingga kompresi mesin pun bisa dipastikan meningkat. Hal inilah yang membuat NGK jauh lebih unggul timbang Denso, dimana Denso tidak memiliki busi dengan konstruksi seperti ini.

Berdasarkan NGK Belanda, kode P yang tertera pada kode busi merupakan kode yang menentukan bahwa busi ini jenis Projected Insulator Type, yaitu busi design khusus yang lebih menonjol.

Sebagai gambaran; NGK Japan memiliki gambaran perbedaan beberapa bentuk busi seperti berikut.

Very different indeed...

Kerengganan busi pun telah diatur oleh NGK sesuai dengan standar Suzuki Address, yaitu 0.8-0.9mm

Sehingga saya tidak perlu mengatur lagi kerenggangannya, istilahnya Plug and Play.

Hasil running test menuju ke kantor, impresi pertama yang saya dapatkan adalah, busi Iridium dengan kode P, memang meningkatkan tenaga yang cukup signifikan disetiap derajat putaran grip gas, bahkan terasa sangat powerful dibandingkan Denso Iridium. Dengan performa seperti ini, seharusnya konsumsi bensin pun menjadi lebih irit, karena untuk menghasilkan sensasi tenaga yang sama, saya tidak perlu memutar putaran grip gas lebih lebar.

Tapi soal konsumsi bensin, sangat tricky; susah susah gampang.

Gampang, karena cukup menjaga putaran mesin selembut mungkin tanpa hentakan.

Susah, karena kondisi lalu lintas saat ini yang tidak memungkinkan, dimana semakin banyak pengendara yang sembrono.

Pendapat terakhir saya (subjective karena tidak saya test di mesin dyno), selama Denso belum memproduksi busi dengan konstruksi Projected, maka tidak akan pernah mampu untuk menyaingi NGK.

Bahkan boleh dibilang busi dapat membuat 1-2% perbedaan di dalam distribusi power dan torsi.

Saran saya, bagi yang ingin meningkatkan performa mesin yang cukup sederhana, gunakan busi yang memiliki kode P (terserah apakah standard, platinum atau iridium).

Sebagai tambahan, saya lampirkan keterangan dari NGK Australia tentang umur busi.

New Parts for The Engine

July 9, 2014, I disamble my engine, and decided to change some part. The parts is:
- Rocket arm
- Piston
- Cam Shaft

I implement Roller Rocker Arm, so it will be less friction. And the result is increasing on the power

The second parts is Piston, as you can see the new piston flat differ than the old one. So, the compression ratio will be increase a little bit. The result is incresing on the power.

The last one is Cam Shaft. The profile is open a little bit late, but open longer. And close a little bit late too.

Based on this configuration, I expect this will not make my engine work to much harder than before, just increasing it performance a little bit.

And here it is when all installed.

New Cover ACV (Auto Cut Valve)

After changing the rear cushion, I continue to replace the carburetor ACV (Auto Cut Valve) Cover. So it will give a better fuel consumption, because no air leakage from the ACV.

ACV function is to cut of fuel pump pressure based on intake manifold vacuum pressure.

First, remove all screw that hold the carburetor. There are two screw, one on intake manifold and one on Case Assy Air/C.

Now you can see the Cover Assy clearly as the picture below.

As you can see, there is a gap on top of the cover that make the ACV didn't work properly.

Release the hose, and remove two screw with screwdriver. Then prepare the new Cover ACV.

Replace with the brand new Cover ACV and tighten it with a screwdriver. And plug the hose.

Check for any leakage from the cover.

Put everything together, and test it.

Before I replace the cover, the scooter fuel consumption only 1:32 kpl.
After it replaced, the new fuel consumption is 1:36 kpl.

KKE3 vs KUDU

I don't know exactly when did I swap the Face Movable Drive for my scooter transmission from KKE3 to KUDU. But one thing I do remember, the parts made the fuel consumption become more worst.

For a comparison:
- KKE3: Speed for 5600 RPM is 60 kmh
- KUDU: Speed for 5600 RPM is 53 kmh

Let say if we really test it run for an hour with a very stable 5600 RPM for an hour (which is imposible in the real world). Then we can assume it will reach 60 km. And so on the KUDU will reach 53 km in an hour.

On KKE3, the fuel consumption is about 35 kpl.

Now we calculate the new fuel consumption if we use the KUDU parts.
Fuel Cons KUDU = Distance KUDU / (Distance KKE3 / Fuel Cons KKE3)

Fuel Cons KUDU = 53 km / (60 km / 35 kpl)
Fuel Cons KUDU = 53 km / 1.7143 L
Fuel Cons KUDU = 30.9167 kpl

The conclution is:
KKE3 vs KUDU = 35 kpl vs 31 kpl

Horn Relay

Monday, May 16, 2010, I want to implement a Relay for my scooter horn, so it can produce sound quality on it maximum performance.

First thing to do is prepare the tools needed to implementing the relay.

• 1 pcs 4 leg relay
• 1 pcs relay socket
• 3 pcs male terminal
• 6 pcs female terminal
• 2 pcs rubber seal terminal
• 1 pcs round terminal
• 1 pcs 10A fuse
• 1 pcs fuse socket
• Cable with 1.5mm diameter cooper width

The fuse that I choose is 10 amp, because the battery in my scooter was 8 amp.

Here is the diagram for the horn relay:
Get to work.

• Make 3 pcs cable @15cm length
• Connect each cable on one side with female terminal
• Connect each of the fuse cable with female terminal and give one of the cable with the rubber seal
• Plug it the 3 cable and one of the fuse cable into the socket relay
• Connect the 86 relay cable feet with male terminal
• Release the socket from the horn colored with light green and then connect it with the 86 relay cable
• Connect the 87 relay cable feet with female terminal and give a rubber seal and then plug it to the horn
• Connect the 85 relay cable feet with a male terminal and then connect it to the horn ground
• Make 1 pcs cable 1.5m length
• Connect the cable with round terminal and male terminal
• Connect the male terminal with the fuse cable and the round to the positive battery
• Plug the relay onto the socket

Done. Lets test the sound.

I push the switch button and I get shocked. Wow, it louder than before...

Damn good indeed!!! No need to buy a louder one.

LED Turn Signal Bulb

Tuesday, April 20, 2010, I received a packages from a friend of mine. He told me that it is a LED turn signal bulb and the winker relay as I requested. I really want to upgrade my turn signal bulb into LED system to save the electricity cost.

The stock bulb is 10 Watt a piece, so it will consume 20 Watt (1.67 Amp) if I turn on the light (excluding the winker relay).

Here is the calculation on Amber Superflux LED:
- Voltage: 2.2 V @ 20 mA

So the Wattage is = V.I
That is 2.2 V x 20 mA = 0.044 W

1 bulb contain 15 led, so the total is:
15 x 0.044 W = 0.66 Watt

Total 2 bulb is: 2 x 0.66 Watt = 1.32 Watt (0.11 Amp)

Compare to the stock bulb (20W:1.32W). I'm saving about 1.500% of wattage!!!

Let's prepare:
- 4 pcs LED turn signal
- 1 pcs winker relay
- Socket converter

There are couple of reason why I need a socket converter, and that is:
- The stock socket has 3 pin, and this one is only 2 pin
- The stock pin is straight aligned, and this one not
- The stock pin size is very small about 1/3 of this one

Lets work.
- Remove the front license plate and the bracket
- Remove the front shield
- Remove the rectifier
- Remove the stock winker relay from the bracket
- Remove the socket that attach to the rectifier
- Attach the socket converter onto the stock socket
- Attach the socket converter to the led winker relay
- Remove all of the lens winker
- Replace the stock bulb with the LED bulb

Done, lets test the winker. Ups... it doesn't work... If this happen to you too, then you should switch the cable on the switch converter.

Ok, this should be working correctly right now, if not, then the winker relay is damage or the bulb is dead.

I got nervous about this... Because LED winker replacement kit is not a cheap parts you know, and there are no guarantee for this parts.

OK, I build my courage to turn on the switch...


HORAY.... IT WORK.....!!!

But something is missing. Yeah, it is the sound "tic tac" from the stock relay. This one is silent because it only has 3 pin. The one is missing is the Ground Cable. Ground Cable is needed for the buzzer to produce sound on the stock relay.

Put everything assemble as before and job done.

Halogen vs HID

Friday, January 29. 2010, I decided to try HID head lamp on my scooter. I search the best 35W HID product with the best value of course. I contact the vendor, and we setup the meeting point. After me met, he demonstrate the HID and test the HID that I want to buy. Done with that, I brought the HID back to home. He said don't worry about this HID, it's universal HID, it has a few adapter for a few type of bulb. Which I need is H4, it has it. And he mention that the cable is long enough, so I wouldn't worry about the installation.

Saturday, January 30, 2010, I dissemble my scooter parts; the front top cover, front lower cover, right floor side cover, and of course the handle cover.

Second, I dissemble the H4 35W/35 bulb from the headlight socket. And then continue plugin the HID bulb into the headlight socket and seal it with the rubber seal socket.

After it done, I change the hi/lo trigger cable from only terminal type into socket type. Done with that, I plug all the wiring cable as it shown on the manual. and place all the device (ballast, etc) to the safest place. And I set the cable to a more orderly position.

One problem found when I set the cable, that is the cable is not long enough to reach the battery!!! Whoa, I have to add some cable so it can connect to the battery, about 40cm long.

After it set properly, I turn on the engine and then turn on the light. HID need some time about 4-5 second until it reach maximum light output.

And here it is the result of 35W HID:

Compare to the halogen H4 35W/35:

As you can see, HID shine brighter than halogen bulb.

Another difference is not only the light output, but the battery consume too. On the idle RPM about 1800 RPM, the battery produce about 13.8V; and when the light turn on:
- HID: battery voltage drop until 12.2V
- Halogen: battery voltage drop until 13V

So, I should be carefully using this bulb!

Note: Both of the bulb type is 4300K.

Migrate to The Full DC System

Friday, August 7, 2009, I want to implement Full Wave electricity system for
my scooter.

The positive effect of Full Wave system is:

• Full DC system
• Stable battery charging
• Minimal blinking on the light system
• More brighter light

And the negative side of Full Wave system is:

• More hotter on the rectifier
• Must use the Full Wave Rectifier minimum 2 phase (bigger is better)
• More hotter on the cabling system

This is the step detail to implement Full Wave system (see picture
below):

• Release both of the blue mark cable
• Join both of the cable

Note:

• The left blue mark picture is for AC system light
• The right blue mark picture is for grounding

Technically, Full Wave system or should I say full DC system, doesn't need light system sourced from the Stator. Because it source directed from the battery!!! So, the light cabling system and grounding is disabled, and then replace it with the combination of the light and grounding cable. This make the output became doubled or may be tripled through the light cable (yellow cable).

Make sure that the Stator ground is disable for good. If not, then the Full Wave system didn't work correctly! And can cause burn to the whole electricity system.

Next step is (see picture below):

• Release the yellow cable on the white socket opposite the pink dot and seal it!
• Remove the rectifier
• Release the yellow cable on the rectifier socket and connect it to the positive system out from the key contact
• Connect a new cable to the white socket and direct it to the rectifier socket
• Replace the rectifier with a brand new Full Wave Rectifier

Done. That's all the step detail if I want to migrate to the Full Wave
System.

Note:

• Yellow cable: Lighting sourced from the Stator
• White cable: Battery charging sourced from the Stator (AC)
• Red cable: Battery input charging (DC)
• Green cable: Ground

Custom Clutch Spring

Actually this has to be written about 5 month ago. But sadly at that time I don't have much time to spare.

The story begin when I change my scooter clutch with the brand new one. Bought a set of clutch and the clutch bell (clutch house or whatever it call). I must change the clutch because the old one had damaged when I tried to climb up a bridge. The bridge is not high, but I had to stop my scooter on the foot of the bridge because the traffic is stuck; my scooter incline position is about 35 degree with full of bagage and tandem with my wife. When the car in front of me is moving, I tried to open the throttle, but its to heavy for my scooter, and I open it a little wide; my scooter is moving and pass the bridge.

But there is something wrong after it, there is a vibration when it come on a stop and go traffic. Oh no, I think the clutch is burning. The vibration getting worse and worse, and I have to get used to it after the parts that I ordered is ready stock.

After the clutch is ready, I switch the old clutch with the brand new. Nah, it's done. Clean up the tools, and take some break.

Now, time to test the new clutch performance. I know that the new one is a stock, so I don't expect any increase on the performance. Turn on my scooter engine, and run it on the street.

First impression is, the brand new clutch is very poor on the performance. it need very high RPM to start the scooter to engage. This is very bad for the fuel consumption. But let us make an exception for this because it is a brand new clutch and it must be the clutch shoes didn't sit properly on the inner clutch bell. Let's test it for a two week, if there is no change on the performance, then I would do something about it.

1st week is very bad, fuel consumption become doubled than regular. I hate it so much, the scooter performance is very poor indeed. It take lot of time for my scooter to engage, the exact RPM is about 4800. And on the 60kmh, it need 8000RPM; regular is 6000RPM. Hope next week will be better.

2nd week is good, but not good enough. still my scooter engage in a high RPM about 4500. Usually my scooter engage on 4000 RPM.

I can't wait any longer, I must do something to make it good or better than before.

I think the brand new clutch had a problem on the friction point that make the clutch can not stick tightly on the clutch bell. So how come can I fix this problem. I think the best way to solve this is to change the clutch spring with the softer one.

I need a softer spring than the one on the after market. The solution is, I must make a custom clutch spring.

I search on the market any spring that softer than the stock and it must be steel not iron, and the length quite similar. Got it! Time to change the clutch spring with this one.

Prepare some tools:
1. 8mm socket
2. 17mm socket
3. Clutch special tool
4. Big sized minus (-) screw driver

- Open the CVT cover with 8mm socket and remove it.
- Open the front pulley with a special tools and 17mm socket, or if you has an impact wrench then open with it.
- Remove the front pulley.
- Open the clutch bell with a special tools and 17mm socket and remove it.
- Pull the clutch from the engine.


As you can see the clutch isn't touched the bell inner surfaces properly, about 60%, signed with the black surface on the shoe.

- Remove the clutch from the sheave with clutch special tool opener.
- After that, we must remove the three pieces steel ring with a big sized minus screw driver and remove the plate.






- Separate the clutch shoe from where it sit with the screw driver


- Now you can see the clutch clearly and remove it


This is the stock clutch spring:


This is the stock and the custom spring:

- Plug the custom spring on the clutch shoe, and stick everything together backward.

Done with that, lets test it right away.

Turn on the engine until it hot enough, and open the throttle while I see the RPM meter closely. I feel the scooter is engage, and you know what; the scooter engage on the 3500 RPM.

Go Green with Asbestos Free

After a long search, I found such a good product to replace my brake pad. Asbestos free made from a carbon, make this pad very special. It claims that this pad is work great on a wet and dry condition, and stands the heat better than the stock. And something that makes me so curious about this pad is; it cost far lower than the stock, about half the price.

Let us prepare the tools needed to plug the pad into the braking system.

1. Big sized minus (-) screwdriver
2. 12mm socket
3. 5mm hex socket

Remove the two bolts that stick the caliper onto the shock absorber with 12mm socket.

Now remove the two bolts that hold the pad with 5mm hex.

After that, remove the pad. Now I tried to clean the pad and compare with the carbon pad. This is the original pad:

This is the carbon pad:

And this is the surface of both pad:

Left one is the stock and the right one is the carbon pad. As you can see the quality of the carbon pad is good enough.

The distributor offer a replacement if the pad washed-up before six month or 15,000km. And he claims that this pad is not abrasive.

After everything is setup, on later day I try it performance. Oh no, I can stop my scooter properly, my scooter can not stop! What happen, did this pad is bad or what? I check my disc brake, and I saw something weird. The pad isn’t full contacting with the disc; signed with a dark Grey mark on the disc surface.

OK, lets wait a couple of day and see it performance, is it going better or not. After a week, my braking system is improving, but it still lacks of braking power, I need more. I check again the disc surface, now I’m so amaze that this pad still isn’t full contacting!

I should wait a little longer and be patient with the road condition.

After a long wait (almost 3 weeks), the pad indicate its true performance. The braking system is good enough, better than the stock. I can use late braking without worries. And it’s true that after using 5 month, the disc is still in good shape and smooth condition. But the side effect of this pad is, it make the disc become a dark Grey not shiny.

Hybrid System

After successful migrating into full DC system, theres is something wrong with my scooter. The battery loosing its power slowly! I must do something quick to make the battery work like before.

I tried to count electricity consume by the lighting system.
6 bulb 3.4W
1 bulb 12W/12W (brake lamp)
2 bulb 18W/18W (head lamp)
The total when it on is 80.4W = 80.4W / 12V = 6.7Ampere

Ups, this is to much for the battery, I must migrating some of it back into AC system. The Head light is the biggest battery consume, so I must migrating it as soon as possible. But only the head light not the other, because the brake lamp and the rest is sharing one switch.

Cut on there and plug in here, etc. Finished with that, I turn the key on and switch on the light. First is the twilight lamp. Yes, it turn on without the engine have to turn on, and now the head lamp. Move the switch slider again, to make the head lamp turn on, but it won’t turn on. Now I turn the engine on, and yeah, the head lamp is on.

Horay… the hybrid system is worked…!!!

This is the result, after I’m using 6 luxeon on my scooter:

And this is the speed indicator:

Changing The Brake Fluid

Saturday, November 24, 2007, at 2.30 AM, I want to change the brake fluid. Because it already reach 10,000 km and it is time according to the factory default.

This is the tools that I need for this job:

1. Waste container
2. 4mm clear pipe
3. Scissor
4. Wire Brush
5. 12mm socket
6. Medium sized screwdriver
7. 14mm ratchet
9. 8mm ratchet
10. 5mm hex socket

First, remove 5 screw that hold the rear cover handle bar and 1 screw in the front cover. Split the front and the rear plastic cover by slide the clip inside the rear top cover and pull the rear cover (NOT THE FRONT!!!). Now I can see there is 2 screw inside that unite the front cover with the handle bar.

Remove the screw with the screwdriver and the mirror too with 14mm ratchet. Don't forget to remove the mirror driver with 14mm ratchet.

Open the fluid reservoir cap with screwdriver.

On the disc brake caliper, put the 8mm ratchet on the fluid drainage nut and the pipe on top of it. On the end of the pipe, put the waste container and cut the pipe with the proper length with scissor.

Loosen the drainage nut. Pull the handle brake again and again. Make sure that the fluid is empty and tighten the drainage nut.

"Remember, the brake fluid is very abrasive!!! You must clean the fluid as fast as you can if it contacting the paint surfaces."

Lets clean the brake pad. Open the two nut that holding the caliper that stick with the absorber using 12mm socket. Using 5mm hex, remove the bolt that hold the pad. Remove the pad and clean it with wire brush. After that, put the pad and the caliper as it was.


Fill the reservoir with a brand new brake fluid. I prefer DOT-3, because it softer than DOT-4 when I pull the handle brake. Pull the handle brake again and again while make sure that the reservoir is fill with the brake fluid. This process is to make the fluid reaching the caliper and presses the air outside of the reservoir. Do it until you are sure that there is no air inside the hose.

This air is extremely dangerous if there is, because when the caliper work, it produce heat and this heat distributed to the fluid. If this continue occur, then the fluid can boil. Hot air can force the fluid can not push the caliper piston when you pull the handle brake.

After there is no bubble come out inside the reservoir. Change the clear pipe on top of the caliper with the clean one. Pull and hold the handle brake, then loosen and tighten the drain nut with 8mm ratchet as fast as possible. This step will make sure that we thow useless air that trap inside the hose. See the clear pipe, if there is only fluid, then it done.

Put everything together, and I'm ready to roll out.